Organic gardening simply means reducing chemicals in your garden. When you start planning how to reduce the use of chemicals in your garden, imagine how a primary forest grows.  In a primary forest, you will find a thick layer of hummus on the ground and plenty of beneficial critters in the soil, including earthworms and fungi. 

Additionally you will also see a variety of trees, shrubs, and groundcovers that have grown together in mutually beneficial tiers.  A primary forest typically hasn’t seen the introduction of non-native and often invasive species that may shift an ecosystem out of balance.  Yet unfortunately, most of our created urban landscapes are over-run with non-natives, often times creating a challenging environment for the gardener.

If we keep the imagine of a primary forest in our heads when we garden, we can use the following techniques to boost our garden’s ecosystem so that it functions more like a natural forest.  Below you can find some primary things you can do to grow a healthier garden with stronger plants, so that you can use less chemicals when gardening.  Also check out this site with tips from a working organic farm.

1. Work the Soil
As mentioned above, healthy soil is the key to growing healthy plants.  Composting garden waste and kitchen scraps is one of the best ways to improve your soil.  This is a technique with no expense. By adding compost to your garden soil, you can:
• Add needed nutrients to the soil
• Improve soil drainage
• Boost your plants’ immune systems
• Encourage the presence of beneficial soil organisms and earth worms
• Reduce the need for artificial fertilizers, as beneficial soil organisms will naturally produce nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus 
• Reduce the amount of water you use, as organic compost helps retain moisture in the soil
Soils may become too acid if you live in an area with heavy rains or if your soils have been treated over the years with high doses of N-P-K fertilizers.  In these cases, simply add more organic compost to restore the balance. 

Soil drainage has also an important place in organic gardening. If you notice water pooling in any areas of the garden, your plants may suffer from root rot or other problems.  Mixing in compost is one of the best ways to improve drainage. You can also try digging out a good quantity of the soil, around 16 inches deep, and placing a layer of fine gravel at the bottom.  Mix the soil you removed with compost, and fill it back in. There is no outcome without effort.

To get more infor, please check out the Compost Guide and the Compost Guide Store for information and composting products on the website http://www.compostguide.com/.

2. Use Native Plants
Native plants are easier to plant. Therefore to reduce use of chemical pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers you can use more native plants in your garden.  Plants native to your area are a good pick for your garden because they are naturally adapted to your region.  Thus, they are hardy, use less water, and are more resistant to pests and diseases.   

While you don’t have to grow a garden entirely of native plants, try planting at least a few.  There are many wonderful native plants out there to try, and you will be amazed how carefree your garden will become.

3. Mulch
Using a thick layer of organic mulch to cover your garden beds will help your garden retain water, prevent weeds from growing, and will contribute added nutrients to your soil.  Mulch will also cool the soil and encourage the presence of beneficial soil organisms. 

You can imagine that organic mulch simply functions like humus does on a forest floor.  Nothing in a forest really ever goes to waste.  The leaves and dead branches that fall from trees and shrubs form a thick layer of organic material on the forest floor.  Then, critters in the soil such as bacteria, fungi, earthworms, and nematodes go to work on this humus and break it down.  This adds nutrients to the soil, prevents erosion, and cuts down on weeds, in addition to other benefits. 

You can use a variety of organic materials such as hay, wood chips, shredded bark, etc. as mulch in your garden.  You should periodically check the layers of mulch in your garden and add more as it breaks down.  Try to maintain a 3-4 inch layer of organic mulch in all your garden beds. 
You can further stimulate and support your soil by adding a dose of organic fertilizer. Your mulch will work best when you add this natural fertilizer over the entire garden bed to gradually strengthen your plants over time. 

4.  Grass-CyclingGrass-cycling simply means leaving grass clippings on your lawn after you mow.  The grass clippings work as a natural compost and eventually break down, adding nutrients to the soil.  Grass-cycling will help you reduce the need for chemical fertilizers for your lawn.  They are also better for your grass and easy on the environment.  When you simply leave the grass clippings on your lawn, you also save time and energy in bagging them up.  Additionally, you reduce stress on your local municipal landfills.  Grass cycling has so many critical benefits that it is supported also by government programs.

5.  Companion Planting
As mentioned above, “companion planting” can be a useful tool to help us create a more natural garden and reduce the use of chemicals in our yards and homes. 
Here is a basic list of plants that you can grow together in your garden that will benefit the garden ecosystem.
• Marigolds will benefit pumpkins and other plants in your garden.
• Nasturtiums protect squash and tomatoes from a variety of pests including aphids, squash bugs, and white flies.  
• Beans planted in your garden will help fix nitrogen in the soil. 
• The presence of a variety of flowers including bee balm will bring more pollinating bees to your garden.
• Catnip keeps away aphids and other pests.
• Some varieties of chrysanthemums will kill off harmful nematodes. 

6. Biodiversity and the Proper Placement of Plants
Biodiversity is a concept that applies to ecologically and biology.  Thus, it is very applicable to gardening and farming.  For example, it is a well known fact that if you plant a monoculture of one single crop on your farm, an attack by diseases or pests can be catastrophic.  However, if you grow a high diversity of species, you’ll end up strengthening your plants’ immune systems and creating an overall healthier environment.  Why?  Because a diversity of plants means a diversity of birds, insects, pollinators, and beneficial soil organisms that are attracted to your garden.  Stronger plants mean that they are less susceptible to diseases and pests. 

Besides that, biodiversity means that you create a range of habitats for plants and insects.  If you grow trees and shrubs in your yard, you can also grow shade loving plants.  The shade also cools the soil and provides a better environment for earthworms and other critters.  These diverse habitats can attract lady bugs, praying mantis, and certain species of wasps that kill off pests.
When thinking about how to grow a biodiverse garden, take a look at some of the natural plant communities in your area.  Observe the different layers of plants and how they relate to each other.  What plants like to grow in the cool shade of trees and shrubs?  What are the tallest trees in these communities?  Observe the wildflowers from your region.  Do they grow alone, or do they grow among grasses and other plants?  Keep in mind that insects are a valuable part of your garden community.  If your encourage the presence of beneficial insects, your garden will be better for it. 

The more plants you and vertical layers you have in your garden, the better.  However, keep in mind that you’ll need to select your plants carefully and plant them in the proper place in your yard. Placing your plants properly in your garden simply means observing what each plant needs to grow best.  For instance, grow sun loving plants where there is plenty of sun.  Grow shade loving plants where there is shade.  And never grow plants with radically different needs next to each other.  Your best bet is to group plants together based on the amount of sunlight and water they need.  Besides that, remember that soil is a critical factor for plants.  Some plants prefer acidic soils, while others prefer alkaline soils.  Some plants can survive in soils with poor drainage, others will die off quickly if the soil stays too wet for too long. 

For creating the perfect garden, the first thing you need to keep in mind is what type of garden you will have. There are many different choices and often it can be hard to pick just one, but hopefully you can narrow it down. But by narrowing it down, you’ll make the gardening experience easier on yourself and the plants. If all your plants are similar, then it shouldn’t be very hard to care for them all. Below are some of the main garden ideas for you to pick from.
If you’re just looking for something to look nice in your yard, you may want a flower garden. These are usually filled with perennial flowers. Perennial flowers are flowers which stay healthy year-round. They’re basically weeds because of their hardiness, only nice looking. Different areas and climates have different flowers which are considered perennials. If you do a quick internet search for
your area, you can probably find a list of flowers that will bring your flower garden to life. These usually only require work in the planting stage - after that, the flower take care of themselves. The only downside to this is that you don’t have any product to show for it. Flower gardens are what paradise means.

You can also try to have the option of having vegetable garden. These usually require a little more work and research than a flower garden, but can be much more rewarding. No matter what time of the year it is, you can usually find one vegetable that is still prospering. That way you can have your garden be giving you produce almost every day of the year! When starting a vegetable garden, you should build it with the thought in mind that you will be adding more types of veggies in later. This will help your expandability. Once all your current crops are out of season, you won’t be stuck with almost nowhere to put the new crops. A vegetable garden is ideal for someone who wants some produce, but doesn’t want to devote every waking hour to perfecting their garden.

Fruit gardens are harder to keep. It’s definitely the most high-maintenance. When growing fruits, many more pests are attracted due to the sweetness. You not only have to deal with having just the right dirt and fertilizer, you have to deal with choosing a pesticide that won’t kill whoever eats the fruits. Your fruit garden will probably not produce year-round. The soil needs to be just right for the plants to grow, and putting in another crop during its off-season could be disastrous to its growth process. If you’re willing to put lots of work into maintaining a garden, then a fruit garden could be a good choice for you. 
 
So now that I’ve outlined some of the main garden types that people choose, I hope you can make a good decision. Basically, the garden type comes down to what kind of product you want, and how much work you want to put into it. If you’re looking for no product with no work, go with a flower garden. If you want lots of delicious product, but you are willing to spend hours in your garden each day, then go for a fruit garden. Just make sure you don’t get into something you can’t handle.

Author: Charles H. Smith, Charleshsmith.com
We wish best gardening joy for you…

Flower arranging is a homebased work of art. There are plenty of eco-friendly choices you can make when selecting a flower container: • Antique or second-hand containers • Earthenware containers • Glass containers, especially recycled • Containers made out of stone • Recycled metal containers

Any container that holds water can hold flowers—be creative and look around your home for possibilities. You can cover empty cans from your cupboard with fabric, for example. Or, put a bunch of flowers in a watering can. If they are watertight, clay pots can hold flowers. When you entertain, it is nice to have flowers on the table—but not if they obstruct your guests’ views of one another.

Low containers are perfect for the dining room table. To keep flowers upright, it might be necessary to use what florists use, floral foam. Oasis® brand is most common; just make sure the package indicates that the foam is for wet floral arrangements. Floral foam is available in craft stores. The key to using floral foam is to allow it to absorb water at its own rate, in a sink or a container filled with water. If you forcefully submerge it, the inside of the foam will not get wet.

The foam is ready to use when it has sunk to the bottom of the water-filled container. Floral foam is easily cut with a knife; cut whatever size you require, wet it, and place in a container. You will want to cover the floral foam completely. In addition to flowers, you will need green filler—either from the florist or cut some from a bush or tree in your yard. You can cover the foam first and then place the flowers, or arrange flowers and then fill in spaces with greens. The container in which you put your flowers is almost as important as the arrangement itself. Factors to keep in mind: Proportion: Size and amount of flowers in relation to container The flowers should fill the container selected so that they are neither crammed into the vessel nor too sparse. The size of the flowers should be proportional to the vase. Cut the stems to achieve the look you desire.

How the colors of the flowers work with the vessel Colorful flowers with a very busy vase end up competing with each other. I prefer vases to be a single color, allowing the flowers to really stand out. My collection of vases includes an assortment of pleasing shapes and a variety of sizes to compliment all kinds of arrangements. But, the color of the vase still has an impact: a light green vessel with pastel flowers looks very different from a deep blue vase with hot colors, for example. Cut stems to fit long-stemmed flowers into a small container Do not be afraid to drastically cut the length of the stem. Take gerbers, for example; their stems are often several feet long, their heads are approximately three inches wide and they come in a wide variety of colors.

The look of the arrangement will totally change depending on the length you decide to keep them. At full length, they are dramatic in a tall, slender vase. Cut the stem to a half foot and they look beautiful in a rounded vessel. Take one to three gerbers and place them into a still smaller container.

In short, cut all but a half inch of the stem and let them float singly or in groups in a dish. Fantastic! How the arrangement looks in the intended space If you are making an arrangement for a specific area, select the right size container and flowers, based on that space. A tiny arrangement will look out of proportion in the center of a huge foyer with vaulted ceilings. Conversely, placing tall gladiolas under a dining room chandelier would look crowded. Finally, relax and enjoy the process of arranging flowers! Experiment with different flowers and vases, and allow yourself to create. Most importantly, honor yourself with fresh flowers on a regular basis!

Gardening in organic way rather than chemicals is important for not harming our ecosystem. We are part of this eco-system and if we’ll kill the nature, it means, we are killing ourselves.

Gardening experts J.I. Rodale and Sir Albert Howard are considered the modern pioneers of organic gardening.  Organic gardening looks at your garden as a living ecosystem, and uses the laws of nature to produce healthy plants that are resistant to diseases and pests.  As humanity we need to be responsible for the earth. Please see this website with information on composting and organic gardening written by Sir Albert Howard back in 1946.

One of the great things about basic organic gardening techniques is that they are applicable to any kind of garden you grow, from flower gardens, to herb gardens, to your vegetable garden.  So, there is no excuse for us. Organic gardening focuses on building up the soil, using native plants and plants appropriate for your garden, and looking for a natural balance in your garden.  We must recognize that pathogens generally attack weak plants that are not properly adapted to their environment and that live in poor soil. Therefore, if we work our soil and encourage the presence of beneficial soil organisms, our plants will generally be stronger and more resistant to pests and diseases.

“Companion Planting” is another basic term in organic gardening.  Companion planting recognizes that plants grown together in thoughtful combinations will benefit the entire garden-ecosystem. Roses and garlic are a good example. If you grow garlic close to your roses, you’ll keep most pests away. Roses Love Garlic, by Louise Riotte is a classic book on companion planting that discusses specific plants you can use in your garden to strengthen the ecosystem and prevent attacks by garden pests and diseases.

You can also see this site from the National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service for having more information and feedback on companion planting concepts and specific plant combinations to try in your garden.

We wish a healthy and organic way of gardening and life for all the world.

It is definitely one of the most fascinating jobs/hobbies planting flowers. Yet these living beings are easily subject to diseases and it is important to take the necessary measures before it happens.

Let’s start.. Usually mid to late summer is the time diseases get a hold and become noticeable in gardens and landscapes.  Powdery mildew, gray mold (Botrytis), and black spot on roses are some of the more common diseases to watch for on your flowers.

Powdery mildew, as its name suggests, resembles a white powdery mildew on leaf surfaces of plants.  It also may attack stems and flowers if severe, according to a University of Vermont Extension leaflet. Leaves eventually turn yellow, then brown, and finally die.  Although not fatal to plants, it makes plants unattractive and may weaken plants over several years.  Annuals that may be infected most commonly include zinnias snapdragon, and verbena.  Perennial flowers that may be infected commonly include delphinium, lungwort, and garden phlox. Yet this disease is not something not controllable, actually choosing cultivars (cultivated varieties) resistant to this disease is one of the easiest methods of control.

Unlike most such fungus diseases spread by microscopic structures called “spores”, this one actually is inhibited not promoted by rain and wet leaves.  High humidity will favor this disease, so keeping plants spaced properly will promote air circulation and lower humidity around plants. Fresh air will refresh them.

Chemical controls also can be used.  Make sure to read and follow label directions on all fungicides for best control, and for your safety and that of the environment.  Least toxic controls shown effective in research at the University of Vermont and elsewhere include horticultural oil and baking soda.  Least toxic sprays closely related to baking soda are registered for use on this disease.  Make sure and begin applications at the onset of the disease, often in late June or July, and every two weeks after.

Gray mold is perhaps the most common disease of flowers, attacking many species under conditions of high moisture and cool temperatures.  This one too is well named, appearing as a gray mold on any plant part but primarily on old and dying leaves and flowers.  It begins as water-soaked spots, growing into the gray fuzzy coating. You can easily detect them.

The spores on this disease as with most fungi are spread by wind and splashing water.  So one control is to prevent splashing water, such as watering near the base of plants with drip irrigation.  Water early so the foliage can dry during the day and not go into the night wet.  Allow plenty of air circulation around plants, and remove any diseased flowers or leaves from the flower.  Fresh air is important to refresh them.

Roses are one of the most popular and widely grown flowers of all time in temperate areas, and black spot is one of their most important and common diseases for them also.  According to a University of Maine Extension leaflet, this disease begins as black spots and so the name.  These are most prevalent on upper leaf surfaces, and are up to one-half inch across.  Leaves turn yellow around the spots, then all yellow and fall off.  Spots may also appear on rose canes, first purple and then turning black.

The black spot fungal disease requires at least seven hours of wet conditions for infection, and is inhibited above about 85 degrees (F).  So although you may not be able to keep plants hot in the garden, if you can keep them dry through proper watering and air circulation you can minimize the disease.  Grow plants in an open and sunny location.  Avoid watering during cloudy weather.  Allow plenty of space between plants for air circulation.

Black spot overwinters in fallen leaves and infected canes, so pruning out infections and raking up leaves at the end of the season also will go a long way towards providing control.  Fungicides can be applied during the growing season.

Cultivars vary in their resistance, so choose resistant ones if possible.  This should be indicated on plant labels, or ask professionals at your local nursery.  Some of the shrub roses resistant to this disease, as well as to powdery mildew, include some cultivars from the Meidiland, David Austin, and Explorer series.  Many other shrub and old-fashioned roses are resistant as well.

Good luck with healthy and fresh flowers.

Tropical flowers are very popular for many wedding ceremonies because of their features such as:

* They are often brightly coloured
* They are available year-round
* They have a modern, chic look

We listed below some of the most popular tropical wedding flowers:

Anthuriums
These elegant flowers are extremely popular nowadays. They originate from Central and tropical South America, and are called as Flamingo flowers.

They come in a wide variety of colours including bright red, green, pink and white. One of my favourites is called ’safari’ and is burgundy with pale stripes.

Botanists will tell you that the brightly coloured parts are not flowers at all but modified leaves called spathes… but who cares! They look absolutely fantastic and fresh.

Anthuriums can work well in bouquets, but be careful which flowers you put them with. Their size and unusual shape shout ‘look at me’ and they easily overpower other flowers. During your flower plan, let them be the star of the show with other flowers as secondary. Additionally, the size of anthuriums is useful when creating large arrangements like a pedestal arrangement for a reception.

Orchids
Orchids have long been a favourite with brides. There are a number of different varieties including Moth orchids (Phalaenopsis) and Cymbidium orchids.

Phalaenopsis are nice and elegant flowers that are well-suited to bouquets and also look good as buttonholes.

Cymbidium orchids are robust, and are one of the most versatile flowers. Cymbidiums have large heads but still retain a refined elegance. The popular colours are white, pink, yellow and light green.

You can use them in tropical wedding bouquets, wedding boutonnieres, and in room arrangements.

Heliconia
Heliconia is a beautiful architectural plant. For this reason you’ll find it in the receptions of quality hotels and corporate offices around the world.

It can be arranged into striking designs for wedding ceremony rooms and receptions. The yellow and red colours will brighten any room and make colorful centerpieces.

Heliconia is originally from the tropical areas of Central and Southern America. It is transported by airfreight from countries like Costa Rica and is available year round.

Tropical Foliage
Besides these colorful flowers, tropical foliage (leaves) can make a huge difference to your arrangements.

They complement tropical wedding flowers but also work well alongside more traditional flowers such as roses and gerberas. Palm leaves, and Monstera (Swiss Cheese plant) leaves make an excellent base on which to create any type of large venue arrangement.

Tropical flowers including cymbidium orchids, white anthuriums and ginger were then added. Cerise pink gerberas add a final flourish to the arrangement.

Strelitzia leaves can also form an unusual backdrop for your tropical wedding flowers. Foliage can be romantic too - Anthuriums have lovely heart-shaped leaves that are most appropriate for weddings.

Wedding flowers gives your wedding the atmosphere of paradise. There are so many options and it is a matter of taste and knowledge to choose the best one. Here is a quick round up of the most popular wedding flowers you can choose:

Calla Lilies
Calla lilies have a sophisticated elegance that is unmatched. White callas are very popular for weddings, but there is a wonderful range of colours available on the market.

The near black ’schwarzwalder’ calla lily makes a striking focal point of any arrangement and is always a talking point. The yellow/orange variety ‘mango’ is very popular and bright yellow callas such as ‘golden star’ are very beautiful and charming.

You could even use the wide variety of calla lily accessories to make a stylish calla lily themed wedding.

Gerberas (Gerber Daisy)
Gerberas come in a many colours and are available all year round - which is great news for brides.

They are also famous as Gerber daisies in some parts of the world. Gerberas are the classic flower shape, just like we used to draw when we were kids. Maybe that explains their appeal to so many people. They work well in bouquets and also make great table arrangements.

Orchids
Cymbidium orchids make beautiful wedding bouquets. Although the flower heads look delicate, they are in fact amazingly robust.

They can withstand a certain amount of handling and once cut can usually survive several days without water before wilting. This makes them perfect if you are worried that you are getting married late on a hot summer’s day, and will your bouquet flowers survive.

Phalaenopsis orchids just ooze grace and style. They can be used as part of a mixed display, or for real wow-factor use them in single flower bouquets and arrangements.

Roses
The classic wedding flower is the rose. There is a mind-boggling variety of roses , each having a different colour, shape, and size.

Ask your florist which will be best for you. Roses also differ from wonderfully fragrant varieties to having practically no smell at all. A great variety of colours are available from red through to yellow, pale green, white and near black.

Why not create a romantic feel to your wedding by having a rose wedding theme?

Tulips
Tulips are a wedding favourite, and with over 500 varieties of cut tulip available, there is plenty of choice. Although the traditional time to expect these flowers is spring, commercial growers have extended the times that these flowers are available to florists to include winter and summer.

Tulips have one peculiar habit. The cut flower keeps growing up to 2 inches (5cm) when it is in water. So if you create a display the night before a wedding, you may find that your beautifully contoured shapes have become irregular by the morning. This is particularly apparent in mixed arrangements.

You can get around this by either: making up on the morning of the wedding, using just tulips (so they all grow a similar amount), or by designing an arrangement where it is not too much of a concern if they grow.

This gives you an idea of the most popular flowers that we are asked for. Of course you do not need to stick to just one flower in your bouquet. You can mix two or more blooms so that they complement one another in terms of colour, size and texture.

Wedding Flower Foliage
Another important part of an arrangement that is often overlooked is the foliage. There was a time when a florist may have put a bit of leatherleaf fern in as a simple background to the flowers. Now creative florists can make use of the large variety of foliage that is available and create wonderful shapes and structures using foliage such as aspidistra leaves, steel grass and phormium.

A traditional foliage to use at weddings is ivy . This works well in bouquets, arrangements and boutonnieres (buttonholes).

We wish a wonderful wedding day for you.

Here are some general guide for your gardening pleasure and experience.

Question:  What types of cool-season plants will perform in partial shade and that are inexpensive?  How much sunlight do they need, or can they grow in shade?  If not in shade, are there any flowering winter plants that will last all season that are cheap? 

Answer:  I recommend Pansies, Violas and Petunias.  Also, in November, purchase some inexpensive seed packets of Giant Imperial Larkspur (lots of them).  Sow them on top of roughed up soil and they’ll bloom in early Spring.  Most of these plants need sun for proper blooming, but will do fine in partial shade.  Now is a good time to plant the Pansies, Violas and Petunias since the weather is (or will be) cooling.  When planting them, I recommend you put a touch of blood meal and/or bone meal in the planting hole with each plant.  Follow the label directions.  Click on the link for more information on other cool-season bedding plants for gardening zone 8.

Question:  I want to divide some of my Blue Chip Campanulas, but it being the middle of September and the fact that I’m in Minnesota I’m concerned that it may be too close to winter freeze to divide them.  Should I do it now or wait?

Answer:  I recommend against dividing now.  Although they would likely be fine, I would error on waiting until fall or spring after the new growth begins to form.  Dividing plants now in the summer months could cause undue stress to the Campanulas.  In my opinion, it is best to perform the division in the middle of fall or early spring.  I recommend waiting.

Question:  What chores do you perform in your garden and at what times throughout the year do you perform them?

Answer:  I get this question quite often so I’ve put together a simple timeline that is specific to my gardening zone which is 8a.  However, anyone in the country could use it as a guide for their own local area by simply determining the differences in time from their zone to mine.  For instance, someone in the gardening zone directly above me (7 for instance) would perform garden chores about 3 to 4 weeks prior to my performing them here in 8a.

Question:  Have you grown Dahlias in your area and if so were they of the expensive variety or the type you can get from Home Depot and Lowes?  How did they perform?

Answer:  In response to your question, yes, I have grown Dahlias.  You can see them in my photo album and a sample is included in the photo at the right.  For me they were easy to grow given the soil conditions were favorable–lots of organics, fertilizer and water.  I also “side pruned” the blooms to ensure the central bud was as large as possible.  They were beautiful.   However, once the heat of summer began to settle in over us they began to go downhill.  I was overall very pleased with their performance.  In addition, I purchased mine at Lowes and Home Depot and the rhizomes were of small to medium size.  I anticipated the plants and blooms would be small, but to my surprise they graced the garden with huge flowers.  I will definitely plant them again next year.  I don’t bother with digging them up, etc. as they can be purchased for very reasonable rates.

Pruning your roses is easy, but it’s like so many things in life, you need to do it regularly, every year in fact, to see results.

Below are the steps that will hopefully help you properly prune any of the bush or standard roses such as hybrid teas, grandifloras and floribundas.  

a. Wait Until Your Roses Are Dormant

The climate where the following pictures were taken is very moderate, so roses rarely go into a full dormancy or completely lose their leaves. These roses have, however, been through several hard frosts, are in a slow-growth mode, and ready to be pruned back.

b. Clean All Debris Away From Plants

Clear away grass and leaves, anything that might harbor insects and diseases.

c. Remove Dead, Old Dieased Wood

Start by cutting out all dead wood and all canes that are diseased or damaged. Any canes that are old and striated (showing deep furrows) also need to be removed.

Open the bush up by removing all branches that cross through the center. Cut out very thin canes, and remove any branches that cross or rub together.

Keep the nice green healthy canes.   

d. Don’t Keep Green Canes On Old Wood

Here is an example of new canes growing out of an old, striated cane. Remove any cane like this. Keep only new green canes that are growing out of the bud union.

e. Make Flush Cuts

When removing an entire cane, make the cut as flush as you can to the bud union. If you leave a stub, it can die back into the bud union allowing entry for disease and pests.

You may need to use a tree saw to get the final flush cut.

As the center starts to open up, remove any leaves or debris to keep insects and diseases at a minimum.

f. Cut To a Leaf Bud

Make all cuts above a leaf bud that points towards the outside of the plant.

Make all cuts clean. Try not to make any ragged cuts, as this will allow insects and disease into the plant and open it up to infection.

Always prune to a healthy bud. Make sure your cut is at a 45 degree angle going away from the bud.

g. Cut Just Above The Bud

Always cut just above the bud. You don’t want to cut it too close or too far away. If you cut it too closely, the bud is damaged, if you cut too far away, you can have die back and possible disease.

h. Cut Surface Should be White Not Brown

If it is brown, cut back further until the plant tissue is white and healthy.

i. Remove Any Suckers

These are long, slender, flexible canes that originate from below the bud union. If you find a sucker pull it down and off the plant. If you just cut it off, any undeveloped growth eyes left at the sucker’s base will just produce more suckers in the future

j. Go For Vase Shape

Your goal is to have an opened-centered bush when you are done and your plant has a “Vase Shape.”

That vase shape might be very wide or narrow, depending on the plant. Both final plant pictures below show correctly pruned rose bushes.

Sometimes a perfect Vase Shape cannot be achieved because of what needs to be removed, but keep in mind that the vase shape is what you are after and do the best you can.

You should now have only healthy stems, with an open center.

k. Final Plant Height

Moderate Prune:
Cut back the stems that are left to one third their length, this is considered a moderate prune. A moderate prune is shown here, and it what is recommended for nearly all established bush and standard roses in regular soil.

l. Final Plant Height

Hard Prune:
You can prune it back even harder so that only 3 or 4 buds are left from the base of the plant, but that is recommended only for newly-planted bush roses, or is sometimes used for established roses grown only for the production of exhibition flowers. Hard pruning can rejuvenate old and neglected roses, but you are better off with moderate pruning.
m. To Finish

You should paint all cuts with a sealing compound because the plant is not actively growing and can’t defend itself as well against diseases and pests. If you want to make sure your plants stay healthy, painting the cuts takes just a few minutes. 

n. Congratulations

In the spring when the plants begin to break dormancy, give them some fertilizer to help them get ready to flower.

Keeping your roses pruned properly every year will ensure healthy plants, and big, beautiful, fragrant flowers, which is why you have roses to begin with!

Roses are most beautiful ones of the flowers. They give the impression of paradise. Of course it is important to know how to deal with them, especially deadheading:

Most heavy pruning of roses is done during the dormant season, and we are pruning for health, shape, vigor, and superior flowers when we do so. Some pruning however does need to be done during the growing season but our goals at this time of year are different.

Pruning in the spring or summer generally is done to shape the rose, or if it is a rose that will continuously flower, deadheading, or the removing of old flowers needs to be done in order to encourage the rose to reflower.

Deadheading repeat-flowering roses has many advantages. Not only will it conserve plant energy and produce more flowers, but it will also remove hiding places and food for insects which often become pests in our garden. It may even permit minor improvements in air circulation, thus reducing the potential for fungal diseases like powdery mildew and leaf spot.

Basically we deadhead to remove old and dead flowers from a rose bush so that the hips, the rose fruit, do not form. By diverting the energy normally used for hip development, we give the plant more energy to produce new flowers and cane growth.

The only reasons for deadheading a one-time-blooming rose are to give the plant a cleaner appearance and to maximize vegetative growth.

Deadheading should vary between types of roses.

To deadhead Hybrid Teas and Floribundas: remove a spent flower and the cane beneath it back to the first outward-facing leaf with five leaflets. Deadheading back to a leaf with fewer leaflets often results in non-flowering new growth, called “blind wood.”

To deadhead repeat-flowering roses: like shrub roses or climbers, this can be more variable. New flowering wood can be produced from a bud at the bract beneath a flower or from buds at any leaf axis.

On these roses, it is better to deadhead back to the bract beneath the flower, and observe whether new flowering wood grows from this point. If flowers are not produced, prune back to the first leaf and start the observation process again.

Continue deadheading back to the highest leaf on a cane until you know the pattern or growth and bloom for a cultivar.

This might not be as clear cut as what to do for Hybrid Teas or Floribundas, but this will really become helpful when you have deadheaded your roses for a season and know what is best for them.

Then every season thereafter you will get the best flowers from your roses.

Have a paradise looking garden